Design of A Stable Microemulsion with Phenolic Compounds from Acanthus ebracteatus for Hair Tonic Applications
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.48048/tis.2026.13201Keywords:
Acanthus ebracteatus, Human hair follicle dermal papilla cells, Cell viability, Hair proliferation, Pseudo-ternary phase diagram, Hair tonic microemulsion, StabilityAbstract
Botanical ingredients have been increasingly incorporated into cosmeceutical hair tonic formulations due to their potential to promote hair growth. Acanthus ebracteatus Vahl. has attracted interest as a functional natural ingredient with potential hair growth-enhancing effects. This study aims to evaluate the capacity of A. ebracteatus extract (AEE) to promote the proliferation of human hair follicle dermal papilla cells (HDPCs) and to develop a hair tonic AEE microemulsion (AEE-ME). Total phenolic content (TPC) of AEE was determined using the Folin-Ciocalteu assay. The cytotoxicity and proliferation of HDPCs treated with AEE were assessed using a resazurin reduction assay. Microemulsions were constructed using pseudo-ternary phase diagrams composed of isononyl isononanoate (oil), deionized water, and various mass ratios of laureth-9 (surfactant) and ethanol (cosurfactant) (Smix). AEE-ME was characterized by droplet size, polydisperse index (PDI), zeta potential, pH, conductivity, and viscosity, as well as TPC. The stability of AEE-ME was evaluated over 12 weeks. The results showed that AEE contained TPC at 220.71 ± 9.28 mg of gallic acid equivalents (GAE)/g. AEE was safe for HDPCs at concentrations ranging from 3.125 to 200 μg/mL. HDPCs proliferation increased significantly after 48 h of incubation compared to the control. Microemulsion regions expanded as the mass ratio of Smix increased. AEE was incorporated into a suitable microemulsion base (MB1) composed of 70% Smix (2:1), 20% water, and 10% oil. The droplet size, PDI, zeta potential, pH, electrical conductivity, and viscosity were 97.37 ± 2.46 nm, 0.38 ± 0.01, −2.16 ± 0.06 mV, 6.20 ± 0.02, 24.07 ± 0.55 mS/cm, and 22.1 ± 1.5 MPa, respectively. TPC value of AEE-ME was 294.32 ± 6.44 mg GAE/g. All parameters remained stable after storage at 4 °C, ambient temperature, and 45 °C. Therefore, hair tonic AEE-ME may be used for hair loss protection with high stability.
HIGHLIGHTS
- High phenolic compounds were found in Acanthus ebracteatus extract (AEE)
- AEE is safe for human hair follicle dermal papilla cells (HDPCs).
- AEE increases HDPCs proliferation.
- The developed hair tonic AEE microemulsion (AEE-ME) exhibits good characteristics.
- AEE-ME remained stable under the tested conditions for a period of 12 weeks.
GRAPHICAL ABSTRACT
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